Tuesday, February 28, 2017

Last evening was way out of the ordinary for here.  First off there was a larger group of Brits who stay on the West Bank long term at the hotel for game night.  That was fine, but then a few of them decided to play bocce right in the area I sit.......the quiet area....no more.  When they finally finished it was so refreshing to only hear silence.

I returned to my room and the Canadians came over for a drink and a chat.  She drew Mohamed, but he was not thrilled with the likeness.  She had done me earlier In the day and it was acceptable. It was quite late ten or eleven when they returned to their room.

Today I had the honour of being invited to Ashraf's home for lunch and to meet his wife and children.  I do not have a photo of his wife because it was not permitted.  Mohamed was not invited because Noura (wife) is a traditional Bedouin and no man can see her face except husband and family. .  
Ashraf met Noura when he was doing a building in the Dakhla Oasis, settlement of el Dohous, a Bedouin village.  Remember I spent five days there last year at this time.  They have two children, both under school age so they are able to spend a few months in Dakhla and then a few months here.

Mohamed went to the bakery and picked up a cake for me to take.

That was great because today was their 4th wedding anniversary and Noura's birthday.  She prepared a feast and everything was delicious.

They live just around the corner from the hotel.













Monday, February 27, 2017

This is for you, Aysel.  See, now I go out everyday. Those few days that I do not leave the hotel still is good because just going from my room to the gazebo area is like walking around the corner to your house.

Give me at least a silver star.

 Robert, of the Canadian couple, is an architect so Mohamed took us to see Ashraf's current building.  It is the one I saw in November, but so much more has been completed since then.

Ashraf is a master builder from Edfu who is one of a dying breed who builds in the traditional style and with traditional methods.  The designs are similar to those that famed architect Hassan Fathy used.

Robert was very impressed indeed.

The building will be used as a meditation centre and is owned by an Egyptian/German couple.


Afterwards we went to  home where Layla made us tea. 

All in all a lovely few hours.
This morning Ashraf stopped by just before lunch.  He put his phone on the table and lo and behold he had Strauss' Tales from Vienna Woods playing.  When I told him that as a young lady I used to dance to that and sort of did some ballet moves he immediately said - ballet. Ashraf speaks only a few words of English and has a minimal elementary education, but never ceases to amaze mre.
Last evening I invited the Canadian couple out for dinner.  I took them to Blue Sky.  Sitting within feet of the Nile looking across at the lights of the East Bank is something I love and hoped they would, too.

Mohamed was with us and when Ashraf spotted his car he came to join us.  The five of us had a delightful time and lots of good food also.

I was having such a lovely time enjoying the moments that I forgot to take photos of the food.







Sunday, February 26, 2017

This morning I have spent pampering myself.  I also got room service for both breakfast and lunch.

Mohamed had the kitchen staff boil the ginger  and lemons.  I would have taken some ginger out to show you, but the boys closed the bag with a thin thread and I do not want to cut it.  The lemons are very very small, even smaller than the limes we get at home.

One young man returned an hour later with two pots.  One held only boiling water, the other a very strong concentration of the lemon and ginger.  I mixed some concentrate into the hot water, poured myself a glass added some local raw honey,  and enjoyed a delicious healthy drink. I have an empty 500ml and a 1 litre bottle . In one I will put the concentrate and the other a ready to drink one.

This should last me a few days.  However, it is also great with gin,so will see how long it does last.

My surprise lunch was really delicious.  Very very tender strips of beef sautéed with onions, green pepper, tomato and spices.  Served with rice and a garden fresh tomato.




Saturday, February 25, 2017

This afternoon Mohamed needed to go to the other side and asked if I wanted to go.  Of course I did.  Crossing the Nile by car takes a lot more time than the quick hop on the ferry, but having your own car is more convenient if you want to go to several places in the city.

First off was picking up airline tickets for the Canadians.  On March 1st they will fly Luxor to Cairo and then Cairo to Sharm el Sheikh, finally by car to Dahab where they will spend a week.

Next was a stop for some fresh sugar cane juice.  We then stopped at the famous Wenkie's ice cream bar for a few scoops.  All this time we were also trying to find ginger root and finally did.  

I was back at the hotel in time to have a light dinner.




Last evening I went out for dinner with the Canadian couple.  Our plan was to go to the Panorama roof top restaurant for a sunset over the Theban necropolis. Unfortunately, it was closed.  We decided to go to the Marsam.  It was exactly one year ago that I was there for lunch.  It is rich with history and an amazing experience.  There were, of course, several archeologists who were staying there.

Here is a copy and paste from their site.......very interesting.
Oops, seems that I am iPad challenged once again. But google Marsam hotel Luxor and click on the history tab.  The Marsam is the oldest rest house on the West Bank and what an interesting history.

It was dark by the time I took this photo of my dinner companions, unfortunately.


Friday, February 24, 2017

There have been two deaths here in the four days I have been here.  A day ago an elderly man died and last night the fifty-five year old husband of one of Mohamed's cousins.

When there is a funeral, usually within 24 hours of death, you can hear the chanting from the mosque and it goes on for hours.  Today it was especially long because there was also Friday afternoon prayer. Some travellers are disturbed by the dirge, the five times a day call to prayer, and the village rooster.  I am not. It is part and parcel of why I like to travel to foreign lands.

Today my surprise lunch was a steaming hot bowl of chicken drumsticks in a delicious broth, served with lovely tomatoes, cucumbers, and olives, along with rice.  I still have my yogurt, honey, and banana left from breakfast.


Last evening I decided to venture out on my own.  My plan was just to walk up the street to the main road and stop for a drink.  

When the hotel man on reception questioned me he seemed genuinely appalled that I was going out on my own.  A minute later Mohamed, who has been busy with all the guests, came to ask me to wait a few minutes and he would go with me.  After a brief verbal tug of war, I was off on my own.

I walked out the door and up the street which is called The Street of the Children.  And so it is.  There are always many children on the street (dirt path) playing.

My solo adventure came to an abrupt halt at the intersection of the path and Main Street.  There is a fruit and veggie shop there and the first person I saw was Ashraf.  He is usually at the hotel evenings, but not this trip.  He has been doing a building out of town.  It was Thursday night and the beginning of the weekend, so he had just returned for a few days.  He insisted on taking me across the street for a drink.  We went to a hole in the wall juice bar.  It was clean. They only squeezed oranges and sugar cane.  I had a very large, beer mug style, glass of delicious orange juice.  When I insisted that Ashraf go on home to his family and that I would be quite ok on my own another young man came over and I was introduced to him.  He was the owner and friend of the family.  Ashraf left and now I had another escort.  We sat and talked for some time then I decided it was best to go back to the hotel.

It was fun and I had no tummy issues from the juice.  I will go back for sure.



Thursday, February 23, 2017

Sorry, but I forgot how to delete photos and somehow I accidentally tapped on the tiny good for your stomach fruit from yesterday.

Perhaps it s telling me I need to eat some everyday to see results.....hehe.
I did not leave the hotel grounds today.  It was a very nice day almost hot in the sun.

I decided to spend a few hours by the gazebo under the acacia tree.

Brian was sitting at his table in the shade.  A group of thirteen from France arrived for lunch and will be staying the night.  The Belgian man was reading by the pool as were the Canadians., although Robert did go in for a dip. There were a few others as well.

Today's lunch surprise was a hot pot of meat balls and lamb pieces in a delicious sauce.  Of course there was rice.  I did not get any hummus and bread because they know that is a meal in itself for me.
For dessert just two strawberries and one guava.  I topped it off with a cup of Egyptian tea.









Wednesday, February 22, 2017

There are a few guests here.  Brian, from England, is still here.   I first met him last February here.  Then he came again in early November, about a week after I did, and has been here ever since.  
There is a couple from Belgium who will stay for about five months.  
There are two Canadians.  A couple, originally from Ontario who now live on Salt Spring Island in B.C. They are staying a week or two.
A Dutch couple, who live in Safarga, Egypt are on a mini break here.  Tomorrow they are going off to the Western Desert for a few days.  Mohamed has asked them to bring me back a big bottle of olive oil from the Dakhla Oasis. They are going to be staying at the same Bedouin place I did.
Another couple are checking in today, but only for a few days and I have no idea where they hail from.

I always ask Mohamed who is who.  Call me nosey.  I am curios about the folks who chose this type of accommodation, on this side of the Nile, and for extended periods.  Tour groups and independent travellers who book through a company invariably stay on the other side.

The Canadians just left their room to go for breakfast, as did Brian.  I have long since finished mine, here.  I just do not fancy getting dressed to go to the breakfast area when I don't have to.

I told Mohamed that if he keeps getting more long term retirees this place will resemble a retirement home.  It will be unlike the Marigold Hotel because there is minimal interaction between guests here.  Each keeps pretty much to themselves and reminds me of my neighbourhood at home.

It is most interesting to greet and have a little chat when our paths cross, but we do not terrace hop or have sundowners together.  

Today is Thursday and the day that the massage therapist has appointments here.  He works out of the room next to me, so again it is interesting to see the variety of people from this side who come for treatment.  I may give it a try next week.

It is quiet.  You cannot hear anyone talking.  There seems to be an unwritten rule about keeping the peace and quiet by not talking loudly, playing music, or otherwise disturbing behaviours.  The birds singing and flitting from branch to branch add the perfect touch.

The exception is the rooster next door.  He crows at dawn to wake us up and just in case some of us are still sleeping in he has a built in snooze button.  He crows at regular intervals after dawn until he is satisfied that no one is still sleeping. 
About an hour ago Mohamed brought me a handful of this tiny fruit.  He said he only knew the name in Arabic, but it was good for my - stomach.  I do not know if he meant it was good for digestion or that it  melts belly fat.

I don't know what it is, but ate them all. Hey, better digestion or losing some belly, both good. They are tiny. I show them here with a pistachio for comparison.




Just like home - no better than at home.

The young men working here have not forgotten the routine.

About five minutes after I open my door someone appears with a smile and a good morning asking breakfast?  A few minutes later it starts arriving.  I say starts because it never is put on a tray to arrive at the same time.  This morning my omlette, honey, jam, cheese, butter, and bread arrived first followed by my pot of boiling water and another empty one. The cream came,too.  So now I have my breakfast.  There is a knife and spoon, but no fork.  No problem.  He will be back to see what else I want. I bring and prepare my own morning pot of coffee and while I was doing so I noticed that there was no glass of juice, nor was there a banana.  Oh well, I thought that perhaps with inflation running up to 100 percent on some things perhaps they were cutting down.  Not so, said Mohamed when I asked him.  Tomorrow I bet both will arrive at some point during the service.

Now some of you might think what terrible service......no no no.  These are lovely boys who will do anything you ask.  They are not waiters.  They are simply hotel workers.  They clean rooms, hose down the walkways daily, water the gardens etc.  When they bring my meals to me they are doing me a favour.  And, there is never any hanging around waiting for a tip.  I give money at the end of my stay and it is divided among all the staff.

A few hours later I was ready for a bit of lunch.  It was a tough morning.  I saw a young fellow outside and simply said, "lunch".  They know to bring me a small amount of whatever the cook decides.  It is always a pleasant surprise.  

Today I got rice, grilled chicken, and a piping hot bowl of perfectly spiced veggies.
I mix the veggies with the rice.



This morning I woke early and it was quite cold.  This is desert and when the sun goes down the temps drop drastically.  In winter it is cold (5-10c) and in other seasons a welcome relief from the heat of the day.

Right now, about noon, the sun is shining and it is about 20C or so.

My hotel only has 28 rooms, five of which are on the ground floor.  I love my room with the small terrace.  Whether inside at my table or on the terrace I am practically in the garden.  I hear the birds singing, and there are always some flowers blooming.



Yesterday I managed to stay awake until a normal early sleep time.  I slept very well and am now refreshed and on this time.  No jet lag when I do this.

As you know, I have a four and a half hour wait in Cairo before my one hour flight to Luxor.  Although there is no wifi, there are smoking rooms.  Other than the young man assisting me, there was only one other person.  When I asked if he spoke English, he responded with native like fluency and pronunciation.  After he finished translating for me he proceeded to tell me he was a doctor...a respirologist.  In the smoking room!!!  

He then went on to tell me he heard me cough and proceeded with what turned out to be a one hour consultation with recommendations.  He was spot on.



Monday, February 20, 2017

Waiting for my flight and It is a beautiful morning. The sun is shining and it is going to be another day of above average temps.